On the Water with As You Wish: July 24-26 Buckhorn to Bobcageon to Fenelon Falls to Kirkfield Lift Lock

July 24, 25, 26

Moved from Buckhorn to Bobcageon. This continues the Kawartha Lakes region with lots of lakes interconnected to form the Trent Severn Waterway. Also referred to as “Cottage Country” for all the seasonal houses along the lakeshore and on the islands. At one time they probably were mostly seasonal cottages and fishing cabins. Now they tend towards the higher end with houses and McMansions getting bigger and bigger as more wealthy people from Toronto take up summer residence.

Just a simple "cottage" on the lake

We’ll continue to pass through this area over the next several days. Bobcageon is also the center for the local houseboat rental industry. Several companies rent houseboats from smaller 25’ pontoon units to bigger 40’ + models – some with triple pontoons. Sign the contract, watch a 15-minute video on boat handling and away you go!! All are single engines and way underpowered so watching them play bumper boats through the locks in Buckhorn, Bobcageon and Fenelon Falls is a way the locals pass the time.

A small houseboat

Transportation comes in all forms

The trip to Bobcageon was uneventful. A pretty short trip through a couple lakes and arrival around 11 just as the previous days folks were pushing off the wall. We got a primo spot on the lower wall with power along with several other loopers.

Looper boats lined up on the wall in Bobcageon

Got to explore the town. Martha did some shopping at Bigby’s for new sandals. The store has been in operation for over 100 years and is known for their large selection of women’s shoes although they carry a variety of men’s and women’s items. Lunch and a beer sampler at “Just for the Halibut” fish and chips restaurant which came very highly recommend. Had one of the best waitresses of our trip who was entertaining and just a hoot. Stopped at the bakery for some butter tarts and other goodies. Walked to the Kawartha Dairy factory and store for ice cream direct from the source – about the same as everywhere else we’ve gotten it. Early to bed for a guided Muskie fishing trip Thursday with Steve from United 771. He and his dad used to Muskie fish this area when he was a kid. Long day of throwing big heavy lures with limited success. Glad that Steve was at least able to land one and get some pictures. I got skunked but not for lack of trying. Threw those big lures for 10 hours and not a bite!

Steve 's Muskie

Today we lined up at the Bobcageon lock for the 9 am opening with fellow loopers Charlie and Robin on “The Lower Place” and Steve and Cathy on “United 771”. Our plan was to go to Fenelon Falls to start. We know it’s a busy lock – lots of house boaters passing through and it’s a standard layover point for transients as it’s another cute little town. If there was room on the wall we would stop at least for a visit and then head on to the Kirkfield Lock. Luckily there was room for all of us. Bought a few souvenir shirts at a shop owned by the local harbor hosts and then a pizza for lunch before heading out.

Busy Fenelon Falls area

The Fenelon Falls

The Lower Place and we left and began wondered what was taking United 771 so long. Finally got a text message they had one engine that wouldn’t start. They were staying on the wall which worked out well as they had gotten a spot with power. Getting hot again in the 80’s so they can at least stay cool until they get mechanical help. We both pushed on through probably the narrowest and skinniest water on the waterway. These canal sections were some of the last completed because they had to be dug out of solid stone by hand. They are narrow and charted at 6’ deep but the constant depth sounder showings of just .1 and .2 feet under the keel and knowing the bottom was stone had us creeping along for several nerve wracking miles. Makes the Dismal Swamp route or the Rockpile section in Myrtle Beach look like child's play!

Glad to finally make it to the Kirkfield lift lock. This is the second tallest remaining lift lock in the world with only the Peterborough being higher. We had reached our maximum elevation of 840’ above sea level after going through the Feneleon Falls lock and we’re now ready to start our downward march back to the sea. It’s a very different sensation from the Peterborough lift because you enter the pan on the top and look over the lip like a giant infinity pool. Once down we tied to the wall in a nicely wooded but pretty isolated location for the night.