July 22-23 Peterborough to Lakefield to Buckhorn

July 22

Today was another of those long days where we didn’t cover many miles - just a little over 9 miles - but instead went through a bunch of locks. Seven total today.  We’re still going uphill.  Started with the small lock leaving Peterborough and then took the boat through the big Peterborough Lift Lock. 

Boats lined up  for lock 20 and the start out of Peterborough

Entering the lift lock - 4 boats in the pan all 36' - 40' long

Lift lock view looking back from the top - 65' down!!

Top of the lift lock

  A short stretch of skinny water followed where we bumped bottom twice. No harm done, just a touch but could tell it was a hard bottom and not mud.    We went through all the locks doubled up.  Two boats side by side in front and then us and another boat side by side.  Makes for slow loading and then the lock tenders prefer doing a slow fill when the locks are crowded so it took even more time.    Lock tenders take a lot of pride in their stations and have a bit of competition to see who can make their station the most attractive.  We really enjoyed the variety of flowers and gardens.

  Ultimately we made it to our destination – Lakefield.  A cute little town with one main street lined with stores catering to the lake cottage decorators.  Then a small grocery store and a good pub, restaurant, ice cream shop and bakery (all in one building). There’s an old stone church and cemetery dating from the early settlers in 1853..  Interesting reading the tombstones. Several 18 – 22 year olds listed as drowned – perhaps while working to move lumber down the river which was a major industry.   

Old stone church

Oddly - Daylilies still in bloom up here, but check the size of those Hosta's!

Interesting mural in Lakefield

We’re on the upper lock wall for the night.  Feels pretty remote but the wall is full and town is just a short walk away.   

Journey for July 22

July 23

Early start again at 7 AM to get to lined up at Youngs Point lock for their first opening at 9AM.  About an hours cruise so we arrived right around 8 and had time for breakfast before locking through. 

Early morning cruising on flat calm waters

It pays to get an early start - first on the blue line!!

This region starts the true Kawartha Lakes region where the terrain changes to the Canadian Shield and  granite rock takes over.  Land is granite, islands are granite, bottom is granite.   We crossed through 3 lakes -  Katchewanooka Lake, Clear Lake and Stoney Lake  and traversed some narrow passages in between them.  It’s what one would think of as wilderness lake area in Canada. 

Island lake cottage 

Church on the rock - only accessible by boat 

Narrow passages - stone everywhere

At times it’s completely treed but more often there's “cottages” scattered along the shores or built on the islands.  All still very picturesque.   We made it through locks 27-31 today. Still all going up.   Lock 31 is Buckhorn and we hit it on “Houseboat Tuesday” according to the Parks Canada folks.  

The Buckhorn Buck Statue

There are several houseboat rental fleets in this area who all rent out starting on Monday.  People take their houseboats and  just move  a little bit and anchor and then on Tues. they head for the lock s and passage to other areas.  These are 40’ houseboats with small single engines with inexperienced drivers.   OK on open water but dangerous around locks and docks. Buckhorn lock is one of just a few with power hookups so it’s always a bit more popular but by leaving early and therefore arriving early we were able to secure a spot on the wall along with 4 other loopers.  A few more loopers came through and went over to a marina and a few more pressed on to our stop for tomorrow – Bobcageon. 

Not to be outdone by Lakefield - a mural in Buckhorn

Great weather now that the heat wave broke.  Sunny – upper 70’s and relatively mild humidity – nice little breeze too.   We finally had a home cooked meal using all those vegetables we got at the farmers market in Peterborough with plenty still remaining for another meal.

Journey for July 23