July 27 Kirkfield to Orillia

July 27

Left Kirkfield lock at 8 AM so that we arrived at the first swing bridge some 6 miles down steam at 9 in time for their first opening. The day was really two very different journeys.  First, we’ll continue through more skinny water and narrow man-made cuts and go through 5 locks, 2 swing bridges and under a bridge built in 1905 called the “Hole in the Wall”.  

This doesn't look too bad.

Well, maybe a bit tight.

OK - a lot tight.  But we made it!!

Then, in the afternoon we’ll hit big deep water and run several hours across Lake Simcoe.   This morning’s run was a bit harrowing with the depth finder constantly showing those .1 to .2 feet readings under the keel and we touched twice which just added to the drama. We have a full keel with a metal skeg extending under the rudder, so all our gear is protected. But the sound of these rubs against stone are just very different from thumping over a log or sandbar.   Lockage was easy today with just us and “The Lower Place” a 42’ Jefferson so plenty of room and quick load in and out. 

Approaching the downbound lock

All loaded in

These locks are all going downstream now so the procedure is a little different when we enter at the top side since we can’t reach down to tie our lines.  Thankfully the Parks Canada staff is very accommodating with taking your lines, wrapping it around a tie off and handing the bitter end back to you.   Finally made it to Lake Simcoe.  The breeze had picked up and because this is a large body of water it can become choppy and even develop significant waves. 

Finally!!  Heading for some deep  open water s

We saw 1-2 footers and a few whitecaps but nothing that would be excessive for us.   The waves were coming from the SW so we were taking them on our port side bow most of the time.  A little rolly but better than a full beam sea.   After about 2 hours of cruising we approached land and things settled down.  Made it to Port Orillia by 2:30 and got all settled in.  Counted out over a dozen other looper boats here.   We’ll stay here a few days. Our original plan was to get here Friday so Martha could attend the Sat. farmers market.  I had gotten her some maple syrup from a local producer – Feltis Farms - when I was here 2 years ago.  She’s never found anything comparable and had been wanting to load up on it.  Luckily our friends on Cat n Dogs arrived the previous day and Jax was able to buy Martha a jug of it.  She is happy! Says we can go home now. 

Can you say "Super Size me??"

We’ll hunker down here a few days.  Just a couple more days  running time and we'll be off the Trent-Severn and heading into the Georgian Bay.

Journey for July 27

July 24-26 Buckhorn to Bobcageon to Fenelon Falls to Kirkfield Lift Lock

July 24, 25, 26

Moved from Buckhorn to Bobcageon. This continues the Kawartha Lakes region with lots of lakes interconnected to form the Trent Severn Waterway.  Also referred to as “Cottage Country” for all the seasonal houses along the lakeshore and on the islands.  At one time they probably were mostly seasonal cottages and fishing cabins.  Now they tend towards the higher end with houses and McMansions getting bigger and bigger as more wealthy people from Toronto take up summer residence.

Just a simple "cottage" on the lake

We’ll continue to pass through this area over the next several days.   Bobcageon is also the center for the local houseboat rental industry.   Several companies rent houseboats from smaller 25’ pontoon units to bigger 40’ + models – some with triple pontoons.  Sign the contract, watch a 15-minute video on boat handling and away you go!!     All are single engines and way underpowered so watching them play bumper boats through the locks in Buckhorn, Bobcageon and Fenelon Falls is a way the locals pass the time. 

A small houseboat

Transportation comes in all forms

The trip to Bobcageon was uneventful.  A pretty short trip through a couple lakes and arrival around 11 just as the previous days folks were pushing off the wall.   We got a primo spot on the lower wall with power along with several other loopers. 

Looper boats lined up on the wall in Bobcageon

Got to explore the town.  Martha did some shopping at Bigby’s for new sandals.  The store has been in operation for over 100 years and is known for their large selection of women’s shoes although they carry a variety of men’s and women’s  items.  Lunch and a beer sampler at “Just for the Halibut” fish and chips restaurant which came very highly recommend.  Had one of the best waitresses of our trip who was entertaining and  just a hoot. Stopped at the bakery for some butter tarts and other goodies.   Walked to the Kawartha Dairy factory and store for ice cream direct from the source – about the same as everywhere else we’ve gotten it.   Early to bed for a guided Muskie fishing trip Thursday with Steve from United 771.   He and his dad used to Muskie fish this area when he was a kid.   Long day of throwing big heavy lures with limited success.  Glad that Steve was at least able to land one and get some pictures.   I got skunked but not for lack of trying.  Threw those big lures for 10 hours and not a bite!   

Steve 's Muskie

Today we lined up at the Bobcageon lock for the 9 am opening with fellow loopers Charlie and Robin on “The Lower Place” and Steve and Cathy on “United 771”.  Our plan was to go to Fenelon Falls to start.  We know it’s a busy lock – lots of house boaters passing through and it’s a standard layover point for transients as it’s another cute little town.   If there was room on the wall we would stop at least for a visit and then head on to the Kirkfield Lock.  Luckily there was room for all of us.  Bought a few souvenir shirts at a shop owned by the local harbor hosts and then a pizza for lunch before heading out.   

Busy Fenelon Falls area

The Fenelon Falls

The Lower Place and we left and began wondered what was taking United 771 so long.   Finally got a text message they had one engine that wouldn’t start.  They were staying on the wall which worked out well as they had gotten a spot with power.   Getting hot again in the 80’s so they can at least stay cool until they get mechanical help.   We both pushed on through probably the narrowest and skinniest water on the waterway.   These canal sections were some of the last completed because they had to be dug out of solid stone by hand.  They are narrow and charted at 6’ deep but the constant depth sounder showings of  just .1 and .2 feet under the keel and knowing the bottom was stone had us creeping along  for  several nerve wracking miles.   Makes the Dismal Swamp route or the  Rockpile section in Myrtle Beach look like child's play!

Glad to finally make it to the Kirkfield lift lock.   This is the second tallest remaining lift lock in the world with only the Peterborough  being higher.   We had reached our maximum elevation of 840’ above sea level after going through the Feneleon Falls lock and we’re now ready to start our downward march back to the sea.  It’s a very different sensation from the Peterborough lift because you  enter the pan on the top and look over the lip  like a giant infinity pool. Once down we tied to the wall in a nicely wooded   but pretty isolated location for the night.  

Approach to the Kirkfield Lock

Martha says "STOP!!   That's close enough"

Tied to the wall for the night

Looking back at the lift lock from below

Sorry - no journey map for today

July 22-23 Peterborough to Lakefield to Buckhorn

July 22

Today was another of those long days where we didn’t cover many miles - just a little over 9 miles - but instead went through a bunch of locks. Seven total today.  We’re still going uphill.  Started with the small lock leaving Peterborough and then took the boat through the big Peterborough Lift Lock. 

Boats lined up  for lock 20 and the start out of Peterborough

Entering the lift lock - 4 boats in the pan all 36' - 40' long

Lift lock view looking back from the top - 65' down!!

Top of the lift lock

  A short stretch of skinny water followed where we bumped bottom twice. No harm done, just a touch but could tell it was a hard bottom and not mud.    We went through all the locks doubled up.  Two boats side by side in front and then us and another boat side by side.  Makes for slow loading and then the lock tenders prefer doing a slow fill when the locks are crowded so it took even more time.    Lock tenders take a lot of pride in their stations and have a bit of competition to see who can make their station the most attractive.  We really enjoyed the variety of flowers and gardens.

  Ultimately we made it to our destination – Lakefield.  A cute little town with one main street lined with stores catering to the lake cottage decorators.  Then a small grocery store and a good pub, restaurant, ice cream shop and bakery (all in one building). There’s an old stone church and cemetery dating from the early settlers in 1853..  Interesting reading the tombstones. Several 18 – 22 year olds listed as drowned – perhaps while working to move lumber down the river which was a major industry.   

Old stone church

Oddly - Daylilies still in bloom up here, but check the size of those Hosta's!

Interesting mural in Lakefield

We’re on the upper lock wall for the night.  Feels pretty remote but the wall is full and town is just a short walk away.   

Journey for July 22

July 23

Early start again at 7 AM to get to lined up at Youngs Point lock for their first opening at 9AM.  About an hours cruise so we arrived right around 8 and had time for breakfast before locking through. 

Early morning cruising on flat calm waters

It pays to get an early start - first on the blue line!!

This region starts the true Kawartha Lakes region where the terrain changes to the Canadian Shield and  granite rock takes over.  Land is granite, islands are granite, bottom is granite.   We crossed through 3 lakes -  Katchewanooka Lake, Clear Lake and Stoney Lake  and traversed some narrow passages in between them.  It’s what one would think of as wilderness lake area in Canada. 

Island lake cottage 

Church on the rock - only accessible by boat 

Narrow passages - stone everywhere

At times it’s completely treed but more often there's “cottages” scattered along the shores or built on the islands.  All still very picturesque.   We made it through locks 27-31 today. Still all going up.   Lock 31 is Buckhorn and we hit it on “Houseboat Tuesday” according to the Parks Canada folks.  

The Buckhorn Buck Statue

There are several houseboat rental fleets in this area who all rent out starting on Monday.  People take their houseboats and  just move  a little bit and anchor and then on Tues. they head for the lock s and passage to other areas.  These are 40’ houseboats with small single engines with inexperienced drivers.   OK on open water but dangerous around locks and docks. Buckhorn lock is one of just a few with power hookups so it’s always a bit more popular but by leaving early and therefore arriving early we were able to secure a spot on the wall along with 4 other loopers.  A few more loopers came through and went over to a marina and a few more pressed on to our stop for tomorrow – Bobcageon. 

Not to be outdone by Lakefield - a mural in Buckhorn

Great weather now that the heat wave broke.  Sunny – upper 70’s and relatively mild humidity – nice little breeze too.   We finally had a home cooked meal using all those vegetables we got at the farmers market in Peterborough with plenty still remaining for another meal.

Journey for July 23

July 21 - Peterborough

July 21

We’ve spent the weekend in Peterborough as planned.  It’s the largest city we’ll visit along the Trent -Severn waterway so plenty of things to do.  Took in 2 farmers markets Saturday morning.  I remembered this town having a fabulous market with a ton of vendors so was surprised to learn there were now 2 markets.  Apparently some vendors had a big falling out with the original one and started another.  Each about a mile in different directions from the marina.  So off to the original first which was still decent but had been downsized.   Got some green beans, mushrooms, carrots, and cherries.   Then headed to the new market with a few other loopers.  There were more vendors than I was expecting and again a nice selection.  Picked up baby potatoes, snap peas, and some baked goods including a very delicious shortbread cookie.  That market was near one of the downtown brew pubs so we all decided that on a hot 90 degree day and having done all that walking we deserved to try a flight of their craft brew. A bit underwhelmed, but it may have been we were hoping for something frosty cold and these were not.   Finished the day with dinner on board and listening to a band playing at the pavilion in the park next to the marina.  They have a summer concert series with live bands every Wed and Sat night.

Sunday we got up early and launched the kayaks!   Paddled over to Lock 20 with Russ and Jax  and they put us in after loading 4 bigger looper boats. 

The kayaking crew at lock 20

Squeezing into the back of lock 20 while the doors close

Waiting to enter the lift lock

We must be having fun!

We then paddled up to the Peterborough Lift Lock and rode that up with them.   After parking the kayaks we got treated to a tour of the control station and even got a chance to operate a few of the controls and move the next load of boats up.  

Boats loading in down below

Hitting the control button to start the lift

It worked!  Boats now at the top.

Then back down the lift lock, back through lock 20 and back to the marina.   A lot of paddling in 3 hours.   With our upper body workout complete it was now time to walk the mile over and mile back to the Canadian Canoe Museum.  It’s a rather impressive collection containing everything from very old dugout canoes to bark canoes, to Eskimo kayaks representing many of the First Nation tribes.   Historically it continues to bigger canoes used by the fur traders and the Hudson Bay Company.    Then transitions into   the wooden canoes used recreationally during the gilded age including a variety of racing canoes.  There’s a display showcasing several regional canoe manufacturing companies from that era including the Peterborough Canoe Company.    On the return trip we stopped at the Peterborough Art Gallery just to see what they had since it was on the way. Not a very large display with mostly more modern artwork.    Thankfully the heat wave we’ve had the last week is finally breaking so all this activity was bearable but still a long full day of activity.  Off the docks tomorrow AM to continue our travels.

The Peterborough Fountain showing off it's colors

July 18-19 Campbellford to Hastings to Peterborough

July 18

Pretty much all the loopers stayed at the Campbellford walls for another night.  It might have been the buy 2 nights dockage get a third night free offered by the local Chamber of Commerce, or it may have been the  weather forecast that was calling for rain (which never materialized) or it may have been the lure of one more  morning of fresh Doohers Bakery goodies.  Thursday evening we had 21 Looper boats lining both sides of the town wall and the Chamber folks said it was the largest crowd of loopers they ever had at one time.  We knew this would be trouble.  Simply too many boats departing  Thursday for our next stop – Hastings.   The lock just past Campbellford opens at 9 am and boats were already lined up so made a bakery run and  waited until 9:30 to cast off.  Drove the mile or so to the lock only to see the first lockage still  unloading at the top,  3 big boats ahead of us who would fill the next lockage, and more boats lining up behind us.  

Queuing up to enter lock 13

By the time we got in the lock at  10:30  with 4 more boats  the lockmaster asked what was going on – he had 7 boats pass through all  of the previous day and on his third lift of the morning had already now locked a dozen boats with more waiting. That lockage at least set a pace for everyone and the future locks were more consistent.   We transited locks 13 through 18 with the double lift 16-17 (up 54 feet) the only real one of interest. 

These double locks can eb a bit intimidating

Martha enjoying a  refreshing water spray 

Having done so many locks now  through the Erie, Oswego and now Trent Severn they’re all starting to just look the same and we’ve got our system down to a science.    At lock 15 the Park Canada attendant was frantically on the phone with upstream lockkeepers since everyone was heading to Hastings – just the natural next stop and the only real town between Campbellford and Peterborough.  We were told the wall there was full and would be better off tying to the wall at the top of  Lock 17 but once we got there decided to push on.  If the wall was truly full there were a few options for anchoring just past the town. 

Everyone had to raft up in the locks to get through

In true looper fashion, knowing more boats were coming the boaters at Hastings all jostled around and pushed tightly together to make room for the final 3 boats tying to the wall.  It was a long hot day (mid 80’s!!) so after a shower to clean up a group of us went up to McGilleys  Grill and Pub and tried the locally brewed Gilley’s Lock 18 Lager.  Pretty good stuff.

Journey for July 18

July 19

Off the wall at a little past 8 and already behind the pack headed for Peterborough.   This is a 20 mile open water run across Rice Lake and then a long meander up the Otonabee River to Lock 19.   The lake run was fabulous with a SW breeze hitting our nose. Very light chop but mostly felt good getting the breeze on our faces as a heat advisory is in effect again today.

Open waters of Rice Lake

Otonabee River 

  As soon as we turned off the lake and into the protected Otonabee River the wind abated and the humidity took over.   It’s a picturesque river – with the way it meandered and the mostly flat lands it reminded us of the Waccamaw River but without the tannin stained water color.  Mostly natural with occasional gatherings of river cottages.  Spotting wildlife was the main pastime with some interesting waterside sightings.

Osprey

Blue Heron

Cows ???

"Da Boys" doing wild things on the bridge.

  Lock 19 is only an 8 foot lift and a smaller lock but also one of the oldest.  Rather than concrete it has walls of cut stone.  The original gate and valve mechanisms are still in use but it all works a bit slower. Peterborough is just past the Lock and as we approached we could see it was full.  Thankfully we had made reservations but our original slip assignment was off by itself away from the loopers in an unsecured area and in water too shallow for our draft.  After some discussion they said come look at this potential slip on B dock and see if you think it’s too tight.    I counted off 16’ against our 14.5’ beam and said ‘We’ll make it work”.   The dockmaster had staff positioned all around.  Apparently he’s seen his share of boating mishaps but he gave outstanding directions as we eased down the fairway, spun it  around and backed in flawlessly.  We’re here through the weekend.  Farmers market tomorrow for sure.  There’s a couple of great museums, lots of good restaurants and pubs , a  band  pavilion in the park next to the  marina with a concert Saturday night.  We’ll probably hike over to watch the Lift lock operate a few times – the highest lifting one in the world and over 100 years old.  Mostly glad to be in a marina for the weekend with shore power to run the A/C as the heat advisory remains in effect. 

Journey for July 19