Sept 27 Grafton to Hoppies

Sept 27


We spent a week at the Grafton Marina.   Nice clean family run marina, covered slip, out of the river current but a bit limited in things to do.   We wound up getting a rental car for a few days down in Alton, Il about 15 miles further downstream.   It’s also where the Mel Price lock is located and they have a nice museum and tour of the lock.   This is the first Mississippi lock we’ll passage and has a much larger chamber than anything we’ve been through.   It fits a tow boat and a raft of barges 3 wide and 5 deep all at once. 

A downbound tow in the Mel Price Lock 

We also toured the local Alton museum – sort of sad, they had a large picture gallery of “lost Alton” containing historical pictures of houses and buildings that are no more – simply razed or torn down.   They also had a display featuring Robert Wadlow who was an Alton resident holding the title of tallest man in the US (and possibly the world) at 8’11.1”.  They have a life size statue of him in a park across the street.  Sadly, he only lived to be 22 (1918 - 1940) succumbing to a foot infection. 

Next day we went exploring St. Charles, MO. which renewed my spirits seeing a town that cherished their historic main street.   The town consists of repurposed buildings on both sides of the main street that runs for 13 blocks parallel to the Missouri river.  A good museum featuring the Lewis and Clark Expedition was on the waterfront.  This was where they started their trip that took them to the Pacific Ocean and back.  It was also where Daniel Boone gathered up wagon trains   and guided them on their western passage.  We also were able to get together for dinner twice with our good friends Dave and Amy who live in the St. Louis area.  They’ve been keeping up with our travels and awaiting our arrival in the Midwest.  It was great catching up with them while enjoying a dinner high on a cliff overlooking the confluence of the Illinois and Mississippi rivers. Conversations about cars, racing and updates on mutual friends were a nice diversion. 

Dinner at Aries winery provided an evening view down to Grafton and the confluence of the Illinois and Mississippi Rivers

 This next section of the river system is a long stretch with no fuel stops and no real marinas.  I needed to top off and with no fuel to be had at Grafton or Alton we made a day trip a few miles down the Illinois river and then a few up the Mississippi river.   The rivers flow pretty strong as we ran 1500 rpm downstream at 9.5 kts and then had to crank up to 2000 rpm to make 5.5 knots going upstream.    We got topped off at Port Charles marina taking on 116 gallons of diesel and then headed back to Grafton for one last night.

Fuel run journey on Sept 26

Today we departed Grafton at 6:30 just before sunrise but with enough light to see and be seen.   Traveled with “One Eye Dog” and “On Mission” to Alton where we hooked up with “Cat and Dogs” again who had stayed at the Alton Marina the last few days.

Heading out at first light past the limestone cliffs  of Grafton

 The gates were open for us at Mel Price Lock and with low water upbound and high water downbound we only dropped a few feet before  the gates opened. An easy uneventful passage aided by the use of tying just one line to a floating bollard.  

Exiting Mel Price Lock

With the strong current we were making great time sometimes going over 10 knots while the engine was barely working. The Missouri river joined us just before we entered the Chain of Rocks canal. The canal bypasses the Chain of Rocks which is an unnavigable section of river full of wide but shallow water and lots of rapids.  We arrived at Lock 27 to another set of open gates awaiting us so again a quick and easy passage. 

Feeling a bit "puny" in the Chain of Rocks Lock 27

 Upon exiting the canal, you approach St. Louis which has a busy industrial waterfront   with plenty of tows working up and down the river that is not very conducive to pleasure craft.   We did however take a few minutes to idle in front of the St. Louis arch for some glamour shots of each other’s boats.

 
With the power of the Illinois, Mississippi and Missouri rivers combined, along with extra flood waters coming down the Missouri, we were getting pushed downstream fast but also watching for unexpected eddies and lots of debris.  Debris was getting increasingly difficult to see as we had a strong southerly breeze building waves against the opposing river flow.   It made for interesting docking at our stop for the night – legendary Hoopies Marine Service.  Historically they had a series of large barges attached to the shore for transient boaters to use but 2 of the barges were sunk in the spring floods so they’re getting by with fewer spots to tie.  The owners,  Fern and Hoppie,  are getting older and having health issues so were unable to conduct an evening route planning session which used to be a mainstay of a looper visit here.  Having lived and worked on the river their entire lives they shared lots of intimate details to ease your passage.  It’s always been tricky going downstream and then heading into the current while  easing into position for a tie up, but the tight barge space, strong current, and strong winds just added more drama. Thankfully we all got secured without issue although my nerves were certainly frazzled. 

Tied to the barges at Hoppies for the night

  We arrived early enough to walk into town (Kimmswick)  and have lunch at The Blue Owl Restaurant.  While lunch was good their Mile High Levee Apple Pie  is  the stuff of legends and has been featured on the Food Network.   It was outstanding. 

Journey for Sept 27

Note all the red lines - places where the current pushed us over 10 MPH