Aug 24 -30 Petoskey, MI

Aug 24

Another longish day on mostly open water going to Petoskey.  We had some mail from home forwarded to us at Mackinaw City and had to wait for the PO to sort the morning mail and find our package.  While Martha was attending to that I took the boat to the fuel dock and put in 125 gallons of diesel at $2.99.   Enough to get us easily to Sheboygan where they have reportedly got about the best fuel prices on the lake at $2.58.   Finally left Mackinaw City about 9 AM and knew it would be a full 6-hour cruise.  We went under the Mackinac Bridge and formally entered Lake Michigan. 

The Big Mac bridge

  A westward trek for 2 hours before making a hard turn to port heading south and following the eastern shore.  Then across Little Travis Bay with a direct track for Petoskey, Mi.  Long straight shots using the auto pilot in fairly deep water makes for a bit of a boring ride.   We did have one area where we scooted into some 20’ water and with the sun shining down on it you could see clear to the rocks on the bottom.  Amazing clarity and water color!

Amazing water colors

  Petoskey is a great little town. Downtown area covers several blocks known as the “gas light district” with a good variety of stores.   A bit upscale feeling but with plenty of good restaurants and several bars featuring a large selection of craft beers on tap.   Very walkable.

One of only a few "downtown" JC Penney stores remaining

  Initially the town started as a lumbering town helping supply material to Chicago to rebuild after the great fire.   After that it became pretty dependent (and still is) on summer tourism.   The Hemingway’s had a summer place up here so “Ernie” spent summers here until his early 20’s and used this area as a backdrop for many of his earlier works.

Me and Ernie.  

We’re secure in a decently priced municipal marina that’s part of the Michigan DNR   system with a great western facing view that should provide a few nice sunsets.  Good thing the town is nice and within easy driving distance of a few other towns we want to explore as it looks like we’ll be here a few days.  Stronger winds, higher waves and rain expected at least through mid-week.  

Petoskey - Home of the Million Dollar Sunset Views

Journey for Aug 24

Aug 28.   We’re still in Petoskey.  Until today the weather has been fairly decent except for unfavorable winds.  Today it turned nasty with cold, rain and very gusty conditions.  Waves are actually crashing into and over the breakwater protecting the harbor.

 We had a rental car for a few days which let us do some exploring of nearby towns.   We took a trip to Traverse City which has a bit bigger downtown – more shops, restaurants and bars good for a decent mid-day walkabout.  Then we headed to Charlevoix which has a collection of roughly 30 “mushroom houses” or “hobbit houses”.  These were all designed and built by Earl Young between 1918 and the 1950’s.  A very unique and eclectic style using local stones and flowing roof lines. 

The Thatch Roof house - the most famous

The Boulder House

Dinner was at The Polish Kitchen where I got the sampler platter consisting of all the favorites – Kielbasa with sauerkraut, potato pancakes, perogies and a stuffed cabbage roll.    The following day we drove back to Mackinaw City and took the ferry across to Mackinaw Island to explore the town, the fort and the Grand Hotel.   Mackinaw Islands claim to fame is that they prohibit the use of any motorized vehicles. 

It goes back to a town ordinance enacted at the turn of the century when the tourist carriage ride owners became threatened by the prospect of having cars on the island and ruin their businesses. So, they approached the city council to put in place the ordinance that stills stands.   The town is loaded with horse drawn carriages, bicycles, exquisite Victorian era houses, and tons of tourists.

  The Grand Hotel – built in 1887 - is the largest summer hotel in the world.  Very impressive but all I could think about while inside was Jack Nicholson and the movie “The Shining”.  It’s very well maintained but there’s no denying it’s a very old and old school hotel.  

The Veranda of the Grand Hotel

   The fort was well worth spending a few hours exploring with a nice selection of buildings, good historical documentation and an awesome view from up high on a bluff.  

View from the fort looking at harbor,  town,  and Straits of Mackinac

Lunch at the famous Pink Pony Bar and Grill

Another amazing sunset back at the marina

Aug 30.  We remain shorebound.  Advisories have been in place for the past few days and small craft warnings remain through tonight. We have been buffeted by strong winds up to 40 mph so even here in the marina  we get rocked around - sometimes uncomfortably .  Waves still crashing over the  stormwalls and small whitecaps going doing the marina fairways are quite a sight!  During one of our walks around the many park areas in town we crossed a small bridge and saw a slew of guys fishing in this one small  40' x 40' open area  where the Bear River   cuts through town and empties into the harbor.  Unbelievable,  but they were hooking  nice sized salmon!  

"This one's going in the cooler"

Took a stroll along the shoreline looking for (and finding) some Petoskey Stones - the state stone of Michigan. Fossilized corral from a bazillion years ago when the area was  part of the sea.  Now we just need to polish them up.   Hoping the weather breaks for a Saturday departure.    This has been about as good as any place we could have asked for a layover but after a full week being shore bound we’re getting anxious to start moving again.   But the sunsets do  continue to be amazing!!