Wednesday, May 1, 2019

May 1, 2019 Elizabeth City to Dismal Swamp Welcome Center



May 1, 2019

A new month and we’re back on the water again after spending a few relaxing days in Elizabeth City.  
Our slip at the Elizabeth City free docks
 We had a good collection of loopers stopping here and spending a few days.  Boats traveling with us are generally a few days ahead of schedule getting to the Looper Rendezvous in Norfolk which starts on Sunday, so everyone is taking their time.  We had a great meal with Russ and Jack from the boat Cat and Dogs (it’s a power catamaran and they have 2 dogs) at Hoppin John’s Restaurant.  Enjoyed it so much Martha and I had drinks and appetizers for dinner there the next day.  Also found a new pizza place run by a chef from NY.  Very tasty – especially after spending a few hours on a walking tour of the commercial and residential historic districts. For $1 we became members at the Draughthouse and enjoyed a cool beverage. Learned the building had been a speakeasy and brothel during Prohibition. The line of 8 upstairs brothel rooms are supposedly still intact.  Surprisingly, that little  tidbit was not included on the tour brochure issued by the visitors center.  Took a walk through The Museum of the Albemarle which had a nicely laid out display going through the area’s history.  Overall, it’s another town with a rich nautical history trying to find its current identity in a non-nautical dominated society.   The town continues to appreciate the boaters passing through.  In fact, there were enough visiting boaters last night for them to host one of the Rose Buddies evening wine gatherings.


Pasquotank County Courthouse - 1882

Great Historical homes - this being the grandest in town


Todays travel was a planned easy day. Finished going up the Pasquotank River which winds and twists and reminds me a lot of portions of the Waccamaw River between Georgetown and Myrtle Beach.  Just a slow flowing natural river with nature on both sides.  At 10AM we were off the docks and hailing the Elizabeth City Bridge tender for an opening. 

 A leisurely 3.5-hour cruise would move us 18 miles up river to the South Mills lock.  They only open 4 times a day and we hit the 1:30 opening a few minutes early.  After idling in the channel for a few minutes the gates opened and our band of 4 boats locked through and officially entered the Dismal Swamp canal. 

 It’s a 22-mile man made straight cut started in the late 1700’s and completed in the early 1800’s.   Primarily hand dug with slave labor it served as a safer and shorter connection for shipping goods between Norfolk and Elizabeth City and was also a critical supply route during the Civil War.  It is used almost exclusively now by pleasure boaters who don’t mind the shallow waters and bumping an occasional underwater log.  The entire length is a no wake zone so bigger and faster boats simply take the alternative Chesapeake and Albemarle Canal.   We just find this route more enjoyable than being waked by the go-fast boats. 

Weird illusion at times you can't tell the real  foliage on the river banks from the reflections



Our destination for the night was the visitor center at the NC line.  They have a rest area, welcome center and docks as well as the Dismal Swamp State Park.   The dock is only long enough to fit 3 boats so any more and we start rafting up.   Today we were 3 across with us serving as a middle boat.  Great homemade Sangria by Russ and in typical looper style a nice spread of munchies as we all sat around a picnic table  to finish up the day.

Journey for May 1, 2019

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